Melee diamonds are the small diamonds that you will usually see set around the main stone of a piece of jewelry or on its band. These diamonds, also known as ‘accent’ stones, go almost unnoticed since the main stone usually grabs all the attention. However, they are a highly important part of the jewelry market.
What are Melee Diamonds?
Melee diamonds encircle the center stone and adorns the shank of this ring. See more here.
Melee diamonds weigh less than half a carat and are commonly found on rings (especially diamond engagement rings) as well as other various types of jewelry. Their main purpose is to highlight or ‘accent’ the larger center stone on the piece, making it stand out. However, some pieces of jewelry have no center stone, but have several melee diamonds on them, forming beautiful shapes on their own.
The name melee diamonds are derived from the French word ‘Meler’, meaning ‘mixed’. They are commonly referred to as ‘diamond chips’ by jewelers and consumers. While they come from all over the world, more than 90% of the melee diamonds on the market come from India, which is known as one of the world's largest diamond producers.
Types of Melee Diamonds
Just like larger diamonds, the melee diamonds can be cut in a variety of shapes and sizes, ranging from approximately 0.001 carats to 0.18 carats. There are two types of melees, classified according to the type of cut: single cut and full cut.
Single Cut vs. Full Cut Melee Diamonds
Single cut melee diamonds are quite similar to the larger single cut diamond. There are 8 facets on their crown and another 8 on the pavilion - a total of 16 facets. On the other hand, the full cut melees have a maximum of about 57 facets. They’re more brilliant due to the enhanced light play on the larger number of facets.
In the past, jewelers had to cut gems by hand. Because the melee diamonds are so small, full cut proved impossible.
At the time, the single cut was the only available option, but when specialized diamond cutters were created, full cut melees began to flood the market. Today, they account for at least 99% of all melees used in jewelry making.
Finding single cut melee diamonds is now quite difficult because full cut ones are far more popular. Their many facets allow lighter to reflect through the gemstone, making them more brilliant than single cut melees, which is why they are highly sought after.
Melee Diamond Shapes
Although it is a common misconception that melee diamonds are ONLY cut in round shapes, there are actually several variations of different shapes. Here are some of the most common:
· Princess Cut - Princess Cut is perfect for modern jewelry with maximum glitter. It has a square top with four beveled sizes and clean lines to give it a contemporary look.
Diamond ring featuring princess cut melees. See it here.
· Baguette Cut - Baguette cut melee diamonds are rare melee diamonds, but their step cuts, and elongated shapes add sophistication as accent stones. Because they tessellate, they are perfect for when you wish to create the illusion of an endless road paved with diamonds on the ring band.
Baguette cut melee diamonds eternity ring
· Marquise Cut - This is a more unique melee diamonds cut that adds a elongated, vintage look to jewelry designs. Because of their sharp edges, these diamonds need to be carefully designed to provide protection while enhancing the beauty of the stone.
Marquise melee diamond on solitaire ring
· Small Round Cut - This is the most prevalent cut for melee diamonds and can be used in almost any setting. Round is the favorite cut for diamonds, and this extends to the melee diamond too.
Gold ring with round cut melees by Mingtai Jewelry. See it here.
Are Melee Diamonds True Diamonds?
Many people tend to think that melee diamonds are not real because they are too small and look too insignificant. However, they are as ‘real’ as any other diamond, but not at the same price.
Melee diamonds are usually sold in large paces and priced according to gross carat weight rather than individually. This is because grading such tiny diamonds would take up so much time and cost so much that their final cost would be unreasonably high for their size.
While all the melee diamonds in a pack are usually of similar size and quality, some jewelers tend to pass off lower quality diamonds as superior. To avoid being ripped off and buying poor quality gems, make sure you purchase jewelry or diamonds from a reputable vendor.
Melee Diamonds Size
Although melee diamonds come in a variety of sizes, they are all smaller than 0.2. Any larger diamond will not qualify as a melee diamonds. The smallest melee diamonds on the market only about 0.001 carats in weight, while the largest one can reach 0.18 carats and have a diameter of 4 millimeters.
Trendy ring with melee diamonds by Mingtai Jewelry. See it here.
As with any gemstone, larger melee diamonds are more expensive, but the smaller ones are much more affordable. These can be used to create a variety of beautiful designer, vintage and pave settings as the size of the diamond does not affect the beauty of the finished product. When used correctly, they can actually make the piece far more sparkly and more expensive than it really is.
Best Engagement Ring Settings with Melee Diamonds
Melee diamonds are suitable for all kinds of jewelry setting but are especially popular in engagement rings because they add sparkle, brilliance and fire to the design.
Pave Setting
The pave setting is a popular setting for engagement rings, in which the shank is decorated with diamond accents. Diamonds are held in place by beads or metal prongs, giving them the appearance of a continuous row of eye-catching, sparkly little diamond. This setting is an excellent way to make the whole ring look glamorous, rather than just making the main stone stand out.
Three Stone Setting
Three stone engagement ring with diamond accents by Mingtai Jewelry. See it here.
The setting is centered on a large stone (typically a diamond) with smaller gems on either side. The simplest design consists of a pretty small diamond on each side of the main stone, forming a clean and neat setting. Even with only three stones, the ring can still look quite beautiful and impressive if the stones chosen are of good quality and well designed.
Halo Setting
Halo are another favorite way to set an engagement ring as they are cost-effective and look amazing. The halo setting has a large center diamond around which the melee diamonds are arranged in a circle. This setting makes the center diamond look larger than it really is and perfect if you're looking for an affordable yet stunning engagement ring.
How to Take Care of Melee Diamonds
If you opt for a piece of jewelry with melee diamonds, like an engagement ring for example, you may want to keep in mind that they may get loose or fall off over time. To prevent this from happening, it is important to take good care of your jewelry.
Cleaning jewelry with melee diamonds can be quite difficult since there are many gaps where dirt can accumulate. Use a mild liquid detergent and warm water to clean the piece and in some cases, you may need to use a soft brush to get the dirt out. However, avoid brushing too vigorously, or the stones will get loose. Never place melee jewelry in the ultrasonic cleaner, as vibration can cause the diamond to be shaked out of the setting.
If you find it difficult to do this on your own at home, remember to take your jewelry to a jeweler at least once every six months to fix loose stones or have them cleaned.
Wrapping Up
Although melee diamonds are often underestimated, they play an important role in every piece of jewelry. They can make even the most plain-looking rings look gorgeous and can even be quite stunning when arranged on their own. If you after a gorgeous piece of jewelry that is not too hard on your budget, melee jewelry may be your best choice.
Post time: Dec-01-2022